South Africa, a fashion legacy lives on. In his workshop brimming with vibrant fabrics and whirring sewing machines, Sonwabile Ndamase beams with pride. Here, he continues to create the iconic Madiba shirts. A garment that has become synonymous with the nation’s first democratically elected president, Nelson Mandela.
These loose-fitting shirts, designed by Ndamase himself 30 years ago. They have transcended fashion trends to become a powerful symbol in South Africa. Worn untucked and sans jacket, the Madiba shirt remains a favorite among South African politicians. A sartorial statement that endures even a decade after Mandela’s passing.
The name Madiba: Not just a name in South Africa
The name “Madiba” is the South African clan name by which Mandela was affectionately known. Ndamase’s clientele boasts an impressive list of South African dignitaries, including current president Cyril Ramaphosa, as well as his predecessors, Thabo Mbeki and Jacob Zuma. Ministers, government spokespeople, and local politicians all regularly commission these signature shirts. Even international figures like former US president Bill Clinton and boxing legend Mike Tyson have donned the Madiba shirt, a testament to its global reach.
“Anyone who aspires to embody the Mandela legacy, who seeks to integrate his values into their lives, knows what to do,” Ndamase explains with a smile. “They come for a Madiba shirt.”
The story behind the Madiba shirt begins in 1990, a pivotal year for South Africa. With the release of Nelson Mandela from prison after 27 years of incarceration, the nation prepared to embrace its first black president. Winnie Mandela, then wife of Nelson Mandela, contacted Ndamase, entrusting him with the task of creating a wardrobe for the soon-to-be leader.
The start of a legacy in South Africa
Ndamase met Mandela at his home in Soweto, a township brimming with the energy of a nation on the cusp of change. “Mandela expressed his desire for a garment that could be both formal and informal,” Ndamase recalls. “He needed something suitable for addressing heads of industry and international dignitaries, yet equally appropriate for connecting with the masses.” Additionally, Mandela preferred a style that would distinguish him from other statesmen, eliminating the need for a traditional tie.
Ndamase, a self-taught designer, rose to the challenge. His solution: loose-fitting, silk shirts that exuded an air of casual elegance. These shirts, adorned with bold patterns that often incorporated Asian motifs, became a signature element of Mandela’s image. Deep hues of burgundy, dark grey, and royal blue were offset by playful designs, while cooler tones of tan featured nature-inspired elements like leaves and twigs. Each shirt was instantly recognizable as part of the quintessential “Madiba look.”
This legacy extends beyond the world of fashion. Ndamase, who continues to create Madiba shirts despite a recent stroke, is actively passing on his skills to a new generation of South African garment-makers. In September, he will travel to New York to conduct a masterclass for aspiring designers, sharing his expertise and the story behind the Madiba shirt.
The trip also coincides with the launch of his Vukani brand’s new collection, a tribute to the 30th anniversary of democracy in South Africa. Marking a departure from his usual style, this collection features a more relaxed, loungewear aesthetic. The event will be documented by a US filmmaker, further solidifying Ndamase’s place in South African fashion history.
What the future holds
Ndamase chuckles as he acknowledges the numerous imitators who have attempted to replicate the Madiba shirt. Today, the original Madiba shirt, priced at around 1,800 South African rand (approximately $90), remains a coveted item. Notably, Ndamase has always refrained from commercializing the Mandela name. “My relationship with Mandela transcended business,” he reflects. “I dressed not just a president, but a father figure to a nation.”
Born and raised in the Mdantsane township on South Africa’s southeastern coast, Ndamase continues to find joy and purpose behind the sewing machine. “This is a dream come true,” he declares, his eyes crinkling with satisfaction as he examines a shirt in progress. Pointing to a T-shirt emblazoned with the slogan “BE THE LEGACY” and a silhouette of Nelson and Winnie Mandela walking hand-in-hand in 1990, he adds, “This is more than just a clothing line; “…it is a legacy collection.”
The Madiba shirt, a tangible symbol of Nelson Mandela’s enduring legacy, continues to inspire and connect people across South Africa and beyond. It serves as a reminder of the values of freedom, equality, and reconciliation that Mandela championed throughout his life.
Fore more fashion news, click here to check it out.
