Global fashion is no longer homogenous, but a tapestry woven with diverse threads of creativity, and African designers are adding their unique and powerful voices to this rich mix. The world of fashion is undergoing a captivating transformation, and at the forefront of this change are African designers.
In recent years, African designers have garnered the support of influential celebrities like Beyoncé, Alicia Keys, and Naomi Campbell. This exposure has empowered a new wave of African fashion brands to make a significant impact on the international fashion scene.
Global Fashion: A Fusion of Tradition and Modernity
One such rising star is South African designer Thebe Magugu. In 2019, Magugu’s exceptional talent got recognition with the prestigious LVMH Prize for young designers. This award not only provided him with a substantial financial boost but also propelled him to open his first fashion house in Johannesburg last year. Magugu’s design philosophy beautifully blends modern aesthetics with the rich cultural heritage of the African continent. He believes this fusion is the key to propelling African fashion onto the global stage.
“There’s a real hunger for stories that aren’t through a European or American lens,” Magugu explains. “The storytelling tradition in Africa is so nuanced and captivating. When people experience it for the first time, they’re truly drawn to it.” Magugu’s belief is true to Serge Carreira, director of the emerging brands initiative at the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, the governing body of the French fashion industry. Carreira observes a growing global appetite for global fashion with an African touch.
“African fashion resonates because it represents such a vast tapestry of realities, expressions, and cultures,” Carreira says. “African designers are masters at marrying tradition with contemporary styles, creating something truly unique.” Looking ahead, Carreira is optimistic about the future of African fashion. “Within the next decade,” he predicts, “we’ll likely see two or three established African fashion houses standing shoulder-to-shoulder with major independent European brands.”
Challenges and Opportunities
Despite the burgeoning optimism, a 2023 UNESCO report on Africa’s fashion sector identifies some hurdles that need action. While the report forecasts a significant increase in demand for African haute couture (42% by 2033), it also highlights the lack of funding, infrastructure, and training programs hindering the industry’s full potential.
Magugu has firsthand experience with these challenges. Importing fabric into South Africa incurs a hefty 45% duty, and limited access to capital makes it difficult for small businesses to thrive. One strategy for propelling the industry forward involves leveraging the continent’s abundant raw materials instead of relying on expensive imports. The report reveals that although 37 African countries produce cotton, the continent imports a staggering $23.1 billion worth of textiles annually.
Sustainability and Ethical Practices
Kenyan designer Katungulu Mwendwa is a champion of sustainability within the African fashion industry. Launched in 2014, her brand Katush prioritizes eco-conscious practices. “We strive to create garments that are 100% made in Africa,” Mwendwa explains, “down to the buttons, which are hand-carved in Kenya.”
Mwendwa often sources her cotton from neighboring African countries like Burkina Faso, Uganda, and Tanzania. A portion of this cotton is processed into thread and dyed before being sent to skilled hand weavers in Nairobi to bring her designs to life. However, Mwendwa acknowledges the high cost of transporting textiles across the continent, making it difficult to compete on price with garments mass-produced in China and other major exporters.
The goal, according to Mwendwa, is to shift consumer perception towards valuing the craftsmanship and ethical practices behind each garment. “Ideally, the consumer would appreciate the story behind the piece and want to treasure it,” she says.
Building a Sustainable Future
Beyond consumer awareness, some designers advocate for policies that encourage collaboration with local artisans and the use of locally sourced materials, especially when collaborating with established international brands.
“Policymaking is crucial,” emphasizes South African designer Judy Sanderson. “There needs to be a bridge connecting established brands with local artisans, who often lack the infrastructure to protect themselves from exploitation.” The UNESCO report proposes creating “textile clusters or special economic zones” to enhance productivity, reduce costs, and attract investment through tax breaks and streamlined regulations. Additionally, the report suggests improving transportation networks to facilitate seamless movement of raw materials and finished products. It also advocates for African governments to “consider reducing or eliminating import tariffs for fashion brands that utilize traditional African textiles produced on the continent.”
Connecting with the Global Fashion Stage
Fashion weeks play a vital role in connecting designers with buyers, photographers, and influencers. The UNESCO report estimates that around 32 fashion weeks are held annually across Africa. These events not only showcase the continent’s design talent but also foster the growth of the industry. “Countries with established fashion events, like Nigeria, Morocco, and South Africa, tend to have more developed fashion ecosystems,” the report notes.
However, Sanderson believes that African fashion weeks need to do more to attract international buyers. Today, many African designers must attend international events to forge crucial connections with the global fashion industry. In 2024, a significant number of African designers, including Sanderson, Mwendwa, and Magugu, showcased their collections at major international fashion weeks. They were among 20 African designers featured at the prestigious Tranoi Paris trade show, where thousands of buyers converged to discover the latest trends. The trio also participated in Tranoi’s first Asian trade show held during Rakuten Fashion Week in Tokyo.
“Fashion is a global conversation,” Mwendwa concludes. “Having a global presence is critical for my brand and countless others like it. It’s about sharing our stories, our creativity, and our pride with the world.” The future of global fashion is undeniably
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